It takes one ‘thronie’ to know another. It was her Game of Thrones obsession that prompted Shanice - one of the members of my walking tour, to travel all the way from California to Croatia. Our conversations around one of the world’s most popular OTT shows began deep in the dungeons where the ‘slaves’ conspired with the Unsullied Army and Grey Worm to challenge their leaders. We didn’t hatch any conspiracy in those same dungeons, our conversation mostly centred around the Game of Thrones trail in Croatia and the best spots in the city for a glass of local wine.
It wasn’t just Game of Thrones that brought me to Split, Croatia’s second city. This was a welcome pit-stop as part of the maiden voyage of Norwegian Cruise Line’s Viva, that began at Trieste, on Italy’s Adriatic coast. Split was her first port of call and my first taste of Croatia, a destination that’s been on my radar even before being smitten by Game of Thrones.
All roads lead to Rome
The interior and exterior of the Cathedral of Saint Domnius that was consecrated at the turn of the 7th century AD
Dubrovnik, Croatia’s capital and largest city is the ultimate Game of Thrones destination. This was after all King’s Landing, the capital of the Seven Kingdoms. Split, Croatia’s second city is not too far behind. The city dates back to the BC 3rd century when it was a Greek settlement, although the beginnings of the city are associated with Diocletian’s Palace that was built for Roman emperor Diocletian in 305 AD. All roads and walking trails converge at the Diocletian Palace, that was recognised as a Unesco World Heritage Site as far back as 1979. To call this a palace is an understatement. Most local guides will tell you that this is essentially half of Split’s old town, a large, fortified town that merges almost seamlessly with the city. A grid of over 200 painstakingly preserved historic structures that are a throwback to the Roman era.
I walked through a grid of cobbled streets with quaint cafes – the city overflows with tourists especially during the summer months. I ran into some local students posing as Roman legionaries and got into an imaginary battle with them for the cameras. I ended up paying a 2023 version of Tributum Capitis (an ancient Roman tax), a (non-voluntary!) small fee for Instagram love.
Republic Square
I discovered that the palace complex is also home to the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, that was consecrated at the turn of the 7th century AD. It’s widely recognised as the oldest Catholic cathedral in the world that remains in use in its original structure. You will notice shades of St Mark’s Square in Venice as you walk past Prokurative or Republic Square that was commissioned in the 19th century. It leads to Riva Promenade, the perfect spot for those postcard views of Split that hugs the Dalmatian Coast. It’s here that I found my zen moment with the azure blue waters of the Adriatic. If you want to dip your feet in the Adriatic Sea, then Bacvice (a short walk from old town) is the beach to be at.
Croatia’s best kept secret?
A Croatian table including the traditional soparnik and (right) a waiter holding glasses of Croatian wine
One of the many
surprises that Split threw up was its food and wine scene.
Fun fact: the
Zinfandel grape (that is strongly associated with California’s legendary wines)
has its origins in Croatia. The conversation shifted from Game of Thrones to
Croatia’s other closely secret – its wines. Our specially curated wine and
food tasting at Stella Croatica (a traditional family estate, outside Split showcased
some of the region’s best wines (the dessert wines were the show stealer). Our
Croatian sommelier put the indigenous Croatian grape varietals at 130 with four
distinct wine producing regions. That’s impressive for a country that’s
approximately the same size as Himachal Pradesh. Our Croatian food and beverage
experience also included another stop in the old town at Villa Spiza. During a
frenetic day, I tried pasticada - a traditional meat stew, soparnik – a savoury
pie and a unique black risotto with squid ink. Fine seafood is a given in
Split.
Thronies unite
Dungeons at the palace
Split’s Game of Throne trails take you through the dungeons of the Diocletian Palace. These are the same cellars where Daenerys housed her dragons. Thronies also make the trek to the imposing Tvrdava Klis (the Klis fortress). This castle almost merges with the limestone bluffs and was a power centre for Croatian kings.
Game of Thrones fans will recognise this as Meereen. This castle is worth a stop even if you’re not a thronie for its sweeping panoramas of the Adriatic. It’s these views that are an advert for Croatia’s photogenic appeal. This might be one of the smallest countries in Eastern Europe but offers myriad experiences and stunning landscapes. Split is the perfect point to begin your Croatian adventures.
