Paradoxical, Abhishek Dutta’s fall/winter collection 2022, brings together a host of design elements to create a set of smart Indo-western outfits. Featuring an amalgamation of snappy cuts, structured styles and effortless flowy, comfy silhouettes, the collection is highlighted with graphic, geometric and the designer’s signature leather detailing, too. However, what makes the launch of the collection even more special is the unveiling of the new brand logo, the owl, featured in the collection through accessorisation of the outfits.
A spectacular launch is a staple for any new collection from this Kolkata-based design house and it was no different for Paradoxical. Complementing the structured silhouette styles and the bright colour palette, the designer launched the collection with a special shoot, exclusively for The Telegraph, in the Hooghly Cochin Shipyard Limited in Howrah. Built over two centuries ago, the recently refurbished shipyard with its vast industrial area, colossal and colourful shipbuilding machines and a scenic berth served as the perfect backdrop for the shoot. A TT sneak peek of the collection:
Iqbal sported a smart fusion look in a printed bomber jacket with tape detailing and paired it with low-crotch pants. Juhi Ghosh complemented the frame in a sheer French knot-embroidered blouse, teamed with an embroidered lehnga designed with sheer panels.
A combination of easy-breezy silhouettes and structured cuts define this sequence shot at the anchorage. (L-R) Rangeet Raheel sported a silk printed bomber jacket with leather straps and metal buckles teamed with linen pants; Mohammed Iqbal in a lapel-zippered leather jacket with laser engraving, teamed with linen textured pants. Meghna Bose’s printed scarf-draped dress was paired with an embroidered, panelled bomber jacket; Kushal Mehta in a textured laser-engraved bandhgala with custom metal buttons teamed with a pair of linen samurai pants.
Prints, embroideries and an array of pop colours make up this sequence. Juhi in a hand-embroidered corset teamed with a cape jacket detailed with threadwork and teamed with a printed, draped skirt. Priyanka Das in an oversized hand-embroidered bomber jacket with leather pockets and collar, teamed with a fuchsia shift dress and custom leather belt. Riya Bhattacherjee in a hand-embroidered lapel kurta jacket teamed with a panelled silk sari detailed with cutwork and embroidery.
Smart cuts, prints, embroideries and leatherwork are highlights of this sequence. Meghna sported a threadwork embroidered kurta jacket detailed with leather collar and custom leather belt designed with the owl-motif buckle. Designed with a cutwork hemline, it is teamed with a silk scarf. Juhi complements the frame in a pre-stitched sari dress, designed with a sheer torso and detailed with leather pockets and knitted sleeves.
(L-R) Priyanka in a solid draped dress paired with a printed silk lapel jacket, designed with layered kimono sleeves and accessorised with a custom leather belt and brooch; Iqbal sported a linen bandhgala detailed with leather laser-cut panel and custom metal buttons, teamed with a pair of printed and cropped slim fit pants. Riya in a threadwork embroidered leather bolero jacket, teamed with a draped skirt with leather panel detailing.
This sequence showcases a set of smart ethnics. Rangeet in a textured, embroidered bandhgala with printed panel detailing, teamed with a pair of beige pants; Riya paired the laser-engraved leather jacket with an embroidered and draped lehnga designed with leather and chain detailing. Meghna in an embroidered bomber jacket, teamed with a cutwork sari; Kushal sported a regal look in the embroidered sherwani paired with a printed kurta.
Priyanka made wearing sari look easy in this pre-stitched printed and embroidered sari with metal chain detailing, teamed with a sheer French knot-embroidered blouse.
Iqbal cut a natty frame in this textured bandhgala with French knotted panels and leather detailing, teamed with low-crotch pants.
Pictures: Pabitra Das
Make-up: Bhaskar Biswas
Hair: Kishore Biswas
DESIGNER SPEAK
The name of the collection is Paradoxical as there’s a play of graphic and geometric elements. There’s a linear effect and lots of lines in the designs. We have also introduced the new logo of the brand, the owl, in this collection. We have introduced it through custom buttons and belt logos and laser cuts.I have always been inspired by owls. They have artistic strokes and a mystery element about them at the same time as not many have seen them. My design philosophy is also similar. This is our fall-winter collection, so it is mostly Indo-western, which is my signature also. It features structured jackets with flowy outfits, trailing jackets and bomber jackets. The collection has quite a bit of leather this time, in bandhgala, embroidery, lehnga and sari. We have used leather not just as a base fabric but also as embellishments. As fabrics we have used a lot of silks as it is a fall-winter collection. Apart from that we have used silk-satin, cotton-satin, thicker linen and natural fibres. Though linen is considered a summer fabric, the thick linen looks good for menswear and offers comfort to the wearer, too — ABHISHEK DUTTA
I wanted an industrial space for shooting this collection as it has such a bright colour palette. I wanted rugged metal background to complement the looks. This place was huge and added a character to the entire shoot — ABHISHEK
