Shantanu Goenka’s ‘Samode’ draws from various arts and crafts of India and is a balance of the traditional and the modern. The fashion designer shot the collection at the heritage property Samode Palace near Jaipur in Rajasthan, which inspired its name. The Kolkata-based designer took The Telegraph through the mood board.
You were saying ‘Samode’ has been in the making for a while…
We have put in a lot of effort into every form of embroidery and detailing in every garment. The collection is called ‘Samode’ since it is partly inspired by the palace and it was shot there as well. This was the first time we shot there and we are looking at these heritage properties where the roots are strong and give a flavour to the whole shoot. Samode is a small palace and the sheesh mahal and durbar hall were beautiful. We shot most of our collections there. Whenever I have travelled to Rajasthan, I have been inspired by their heritage, culture and colours.
His buff pink kantha achkan + matching kurta + churidar complements her blush pink silk lehnga + matching blouse + feather-trimmed tulle dupatta draped like a cape. Crystals, beads and silk thread embellishes the lehnga.
The bridal look is inspired by old India and translates into new India. So, there is a lot of zardozi embroidery along with threadwork which looks contemporary. It’s bound together with metallic fringing. We have used a lot of crystals in some along with a lot of beadwork. Now these old palaces have been converted into hotels so that is the transition we are showing.
The tie-dye has been sourced from remote villages in Kutch and Bhuj and Jamnagar and parts of Ahmedabad. We have also used a lot of mochi embroidery, a vintage, Rajasthani embroidery. It is folksy and we have used tiny mirror-work with it to give it a more sophisticated feel.
The flamingo peach tulle lehnga has Caviar pearls and Swiss embroidery and is teamed with a halter blouse and matching tulle dupatta.
Then we have a pashmina line which is a Kashmiri line which is done on pashminas. So, it’s the sozni embroidery or the kashida embroidery done on lightweight pashminas. The embroidery was done in Kashmir. We have also done tilla embroidery, which is the marori form of zari embroidery, which is done again in Kashmir, but done in our workshop.
The tulle lehngas are more for engagement and sangeet with pearl and beadwork, more for summer, with nice sexy tops and dupattas worn like capes. We have used patolas, which are colourful, lightweight, fun and are great as haldi and mehndi outfits. We have Kanjeevarams sourced from Kanchipuram with colourful borders. Mothers can opt for these for their kids’ wedding for a royal touch. We have done our signature colours.
The cerulean blue silk achkan has tonal French knot embroidery and comes with polki and sapphire buttons.
There is nothing OTT...
No bride wants to look like a picture from a photo shoot. This is a look which a bride can take exactly to her wedding. Since the lockdown is now over, people want to venture into heavier garments and more jewellery. This is not over the top, yet royal and stately.
Will you be doing more menswear now?
We are planning to expand our menswear line because there is a huge demand. Here, too, we have got embroidery from different parts of India... gara, French knots, kantha, Kashmiri embroidery.... They come with jewelled buttons. Most of the shawls are done in tilla. The groom looks best in an ivory or dusty pink, which balances the womenswear and the bride’s lehnga as well. We have done electric blues for the sangeet. These are classics. You can even wear it after the wedding without the shawl and the jewellery.
Shantanu Goenka
Do you see any difference in how the bridal market is changing in this period?
I see the demand has increased. By the next wedding season things should become normal, how it used to be pre-pandemic. We are sure. Those who have been waiting would want to go out and celebrate in a bigger way.
Jewellery partner: @nemichandbamalwasons
Models: @priyadarshini.96, @anjalisivaraman , @gazirouhallah
HMU: @kaushikanu
Drape artist: @dolly.jain
Photographer: @hormisantonytharakan
Location: Samode Palace
Shoes: @myrohanarora
