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White is the New Black at LFW

Sustainable and lots of whites — the Calcutta lookbook at Lakme Fashion Week Summer Resort 2019 in Mumbai

By Saionee Chakraborty in Mumbai

  • Published 8.02.19, 12:41 AM
  • Updated 8.02.19, 12:41 AM
Japan to India, the all-white show at LFW.
Japan to India, the all-white show at LFW. Sandip Das

Soumitra Mondal

Soumitra Mondal launched his pret line Bunon in India with an all-white show at LFW titled 'Japan to India'. The brand which was first launched in Japan last year, draws from its aesthetics and has the emotions of the artisan as its core. “I like Japan because on one hand, they are very modern and on the other, they respect their culture and tradition. Bunon means weaving and bonding. It captures the emotions of the artisans. They put their soul in their work,” said Soumitra. White, for him, was the perfect medium to showcase that purity. Khadi and kantha with a smattering of silk, oversized dresses formed the collection. For handloom to reach the next generation, it has to be young,” said Soumitra.

Cotton and mul were the fabrics used at the show
Cotton and mul were the fabrics used at the show Sandip Das

Sayantan Sarkar

Sayantan Sarkar’s 'An Oblivion Dream' was inspired by the concept of dream and reality. “We were having a discussion one day about which is dream and which is reality. When we wake up every day, we have a haze of a memory of a dream. Similarly, when we dream, there are lots of things which are not possible in reality. There is basically a confusion of dimensions,” said Sayantan. That was interpreted through a lot of grid play, weaves “that speak about lines and unfinished lines” and organza with “fading” that brings in the element of translucency. Layers and structures sum up the silhouette story.

“The element of summer was the fabrics that we used, which were cotton and mul. The collection has European vibes,” said Sayantan. While his whites had laid-back lunch vibes about them, the layered black and greys with a hint of the metallic can take you from work to party. 

Colours and patterns are a signature of Bobo Calcutta
Colours and patterns are a signature of Bobo Calcutta Sandip Das

Bobo Calcutta

Stark whites forming canvases sprayed with colours made 'Blackout/Whitewash'. Colours and patterns that are a signature of Bobo Calcutta. “Through the installations, the idea was to create abstract patterns, almost like a paintbrush has rubbed through the white clothes. It was not about prints or forms. It was more about destroying the form. It was more about one line moving from one garment to another,” said designer Ayushman Mitra of his “gender fluid” clothing. Ayushman conceptualised the installations as “completely organic and shapeless, moving like water”. “There was no permanent print or form,” he said. And that is the summer mood for him — “flow, abstraction, a paintbrush moving through yarns and yarns of fabric”. “As if a river is flowing through the garments. Mostly everything has become embroidery and not really motifs, but abstraction because the embroidery runs from dots to lines to squares,” he added. 

The mood created at the show was
The mood created at the show was "very feminine" Sandip Das

Door of Maai

The label which celebrates going back to Mother Nature and champions sustainable fashion, showed garments in their favourite hues — white and a light caramel coffee colour. “White is in our DNA. The mood was very feminine… tapping into the flow,” said founder-designer Pooja Gupta. 

Lots of colours were on display at the show
Lots of colours were on display at the show Sandip Das

Tahweave

Tahweave’s 'Versapalli' showed structured silhouettes and lots of colours. “We have been inspired by the French architecture. So, we have used all those colours that we have taken from the motifs and we have used ikat along with that. We have used whites, coral, a dash of hot pink… the standard blues are always there,” said designer Sweta Tantia. The result? A flirty, feminine collection laced with a romantic fluidity.

Breathe was all about easy, resort-y silhouettes.
Breathe was all about easy, resort-y silhouettes. Sandip Das

Sneha Arora

Sneha Arora’s 'Breathe' was all about easy, resort-y silhouettes. She described the mood as “effortless” and “flowy”. “We’ve used a lot of lightweight silks. You can just pick up one of the sheer jackets and throw it over a tee and denim and it becomes an effortlessly easy look. We’ve got a little bit of miniature embroidery detail,” said Sneha. We loved the ‘Exhale’ and ‘Inhale’ kitten heels, a quirky touch to your holiday look. 

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